Its had less than 1000 miles put on it since completed in 2004. The car has sat for the most part the past 15 plus year or more. I will pick up a laser temp gun on monday to ck temps at various locations underhood At normal temps the system does not gurgle/ feel likes its boiling inside the hose At normal temps I can hold the upper rad hose, last nite I couldnt for more than a few seconds at most. The car was warmer than normal 180- 200 degree range, Im sure of that. Its based partly on 25 plus years as a service tech. It allows hot engine water right back into the incoming cool water.ĭo I understand that you are making decisions based on the stock gauge with an unknown source sender? It is also a good idea to look at the water pump housing bypass hole and size it down if excessive. Then, remember this good rule of thumb over temp at hiway speed is typically a water flow problem while over temp at slow road speed is typically an air flow problem. Get an accurate temp gauge and sender to determine if you actually have a problem and when. But that in not gonna fix any real problems. In my humble opinion, that is not indicative of anything other than it's a big block Mopar.Īt any rate, if you want to throw $10 or so at the Water Wetter, go ahead. Either put an overflow bottle on it or leave the coolant down an inch or so in the radiator. Do I understand that you are making decisions based on the stock gauge with an unknown source sender? May I suggest that you not do anything until you actually know what temps you are working with?Īs to the belching of coolant when shut off, big blocks (and Hemis) have always heat soaked.
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